Hardwood flooring is one of the most environmentally “green” products and Go Green Flooring offers a wide selection of species, styles, and colors to meet your commercial or residential needs.
Though you'll find a growing array of styles, most hardwood flooring falls into one of these types. The type of flooring you choose will depend on your taste, needs, and budget.
Advantages include its natural warmth and the ability to be sanded and refinished several times, along with some floors' impressive wear resistance. Pre-finished floors should hold up better than those finished on site, and their warranty comes from the factory, not the installer. Also Pre-finished wood floors have no VOC's because the finish is applied in the factory. While unfinished flooring costs about 40 percent less, higher installation costs can offset those savings, since the floor must be sanded and finished over several days to seal it from moisture. If unfinished wood is used Go Green Flooring offers a variety of low VOC water based finishes. Wood flooring shouldn't go in basements and other damp spaces.
Unfinished and prefinished solid hardwood flooring are typically 3/4 of an inch thick and come in numerous of width from 21/4 to 6 inches. Actual wearing layer of solid wood floor is normally 5/16" or approximately 8 millimeters which makes the hardwood suitable for a few times refinishing.
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Unlike a solid wood floor, an engineered (multi-ply) floor consists of at least two types of different wood products adhered together. This means that the top layer (what you see when installed) can be a highly desired species of wood, like cherry, while the bottom substrate layer (what you don’t see when installed) can be those fast-growing highly renewable tree species. Manufacturing floors in this way allows more sustainably harvested trees and produces higher quality floors with the same robust and luxurious feel of solid wood flooring within the thickness of the top layer. When installed properly, an engineered floor is virtually indistinguishable from a solid floor – the very same look and feel with the added stability in a far more environmentally-conscious way.
Floating engineered hardwood usually comes in wider sizes – typically 4” or wider and long pieces are very popular. Many engineered floating floors have the same length which results in an uniform pattern during the installation.
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Reclaimed Wood covers all previously manufactured wood products that are now either being reused as is or are remanufactured into new products. Examples of remanufactured items include timbers from the deconstruction of old buildings, fences or crates/dunnage that is then re-milled into new products like flooring. Examples of reuse include the reuse of doors, windows, flooring and other wood products like posts that reused “as is” without remanufacturing into another product. Reclaimed products come in a lot of different species, colors, and sizes. These products are usually in limited quantities and change regularly so be sure to check with us to see what's available.
Different flooring materials require different installation techniques. Homeowners install about half of all flooring themselves. Floated floors that go down without glue or fasteners are easiest. In the case of vinyl, planks or tiles are easier to install than sheets.
Nail- or staple-down installation
These are the methods of choice with solid and engineered wood over a wood subfloor. Standard, 3/4-inch-thick solid-wood strip and plank flooring is traditionally nailed to the subfloor; thinner solid or engineered material is almost always stapled. The fasteners are usually driven diagonally through the tongue side of the material and into the subfloor (blind-nailed) so they are invisible once the floor is finished. Solid flooring can also be nailed straight through the surface (face-nailed) with decorative cut nails or fastened with screws, which are typically countersunk and concealed with wood plugs. Installers often sandwich a layer of 15-pound felt or rosin paper between the subfloor and floor to prevent moisture between the two and to deaden sound.
This works well with engineered wood, cork, laminate, linoleum, and some ceramic tile over a wood or concrete subfloor or existing flooring. Tongue-and-groove planks or tiles lock together mechanically. Some products must also be glued together at the joints. The material generally goes over a thin foam, wool or cork pad, which fills minor flaws in the subfloor and absorbs sound. Installations over concrete require a thin plastic vapor barrier.
Engineered wood, vinyl, linoleum, and tiles are typically glued. You trowel adhesive onto a clean, flat, wood or concrete subfloor or existing flooring and lay down the sheets, planks, or tiles. No vapor barrier is required. Some glue-down flooring is simply peel-and-stick, the easiest to install.